Perfumes on display at the Kourtisanes exhibition area

Located in the Taiwan Straits off the coast of Fujian Province, Pingtan is best known for its windswept shores, stone villages and the seasonal spectacle of blue tears, the bioluminescent phenomenon that draws visitors from across China. Now, a local company has found a way to preserve that fleeting seaside magic in a bottle.

Blue Tears perfume

At the 30th China Beauty Expo (CBE) held recently in Shanghai, Kourtisanes (Fujian) Biotechnology Co., Ltd. unveiled its Blue Tears perfume, a fragrance inspired by Pingtan's sea breeze, rocky coastline and glowing blue waters. The perfume's distinctive bottle, accented with luminous blue tones and wave-like patterns, recreates the island's iconic coastal scenery and attracted considerable attention from visitors and industry professionals.

The launch represents a collaboration between a Pingtan entrepreneur and an international fragrance team, united by a shared goal: transforming the island's unique natural landscape into a refined, high-end souvenir that allows visitors to take home a lasting memory of Pingtan.

Turning a seasonal wonder into a lasting memory

For Kourtisanes chairman Xu Wangyong, the idea grew from a simple question: how could visitors continue to experience Pingtan after their trip ended?

Blue tears can only be seen during certain times of the year, but Xu believed its romance and allure could be expressed through scent.

"Visitors often want to bring home something meaningful," Xu said. "We hoped that even after leaving Pingtan, they could open a bottle of perfume and instantly recall the excitement of chasing blue tears along the shore."

The project also reflected a personal ambition. A native of Pingtan who spent years building a career in the fragrance industry, including studying in France, Xu had long hoped to bring his expertise back to his hometown.

As China's perfume market continues to grow, he saw an opportunity to create a signature fragrance rooted in Pingtan's identity while drawing on international expertise.

Determined to create a world-class product, Xu partnered with renowned French perfumer Mélanie Carestia, known in the industry for creating fragrances for leading global brands. Following discussions in Paris last July, the team began developing what would eventually become the Blue Tears perfume. 

A fragrance inspired by the sea

Creating a scent inspired by a natural phenomenon presented unique challenges. Translating emotions, memories and sensory impressions across languages and cultures was not always straightforward.

Steven Calco (right) works on a fragrance formulation.

The process was eased by French perfumer Steven Calco, who speaks Chinese and became a vital bridge between the Chinese and French teams. Raised in Grasse, France's historic perfume capital, Calco first visited Pingtan in 2017 and was immediately captivated by its coastline.

"The landscape reminded me of Cannes," he said. "It has a similar harmony between the mountains and the sea."

To better understand blue tears, the team invited Carestia to Pingtan. Although they did not witness a major bloom during their visit, the scattered blue lights visible along the beach left a strong impression and helped shape the perfume's creative direction.

One of the fragrance's defining ingredients is natural seaweed essential oil, an expensive material chosen for its ability to capture the authentic scent of marine vegetation and fresh ocean air.

Xu Wangyong (far right) discusses the Blue Tears perfume with Steven Calco (center) and other team members.

According to Xu, the company invested more than one million yuan (about US$140,000) in the project, covering international collaboration, research and development, premium ingredients and repeated rounds of testing. The perfume entered commercial production in April and went on sale during the May Day holiday.

A love story told through scent

Speaking from France during an online interview, Carestia described the fragrance as more than a recreation of blue tears.

"I wanted the perfume to tell a romantic story," she said. "The glowing blue waves of a summer night in Pingtan became the foundation for a fragrance that combines floral, aquatic and woody notes."

The opening notes feature citrus and lemon, reflecting the freshness and excitement of a first encounter. Hints of black pepper add a spark of anticipation, while subtle marine accords evoke waves breaking against coastal rocks.

The heart of the fragrance blends driftwood, ocean notes, nutmeg, geranium and ylang-ylang, representing companionship and growing affection.

The base notes combine ambergris-inspired accords, sandalwood, white musk and dry amber, creating a warm and lingering finish intended to symbolize enduring love and the timeless rhythm of the sea.

Carestia emphasized the unusually high proportion of natural seaweed oil in the formula, which she said gives the fragrance greater depth, complexity and longevity than many conventional perfumes.

"I wanted this scent to become a whisper between Pingtan's mountains, sea and the people who experience them," she said.

More than a souvenir

The company sees the perfume as part of a broader effort to strengthen Pingtan's cultural and tourism identity.

"Commercial profit is not the primary goal," Xu said. "We want to transform Pingtan's natural beauty into a distinctive cultural product that helps tell the island's story."

Visitors appear to agree. Xu Jialing, a tourist from Fuzhou who visited Pingtan during the holiday, said the perfume immediately caught her attention.

"I had already seen blue tears along the coast and wanted something special to remember the experience," she said. "Knowing that a French perfumer created it specifically for Pingtan makes it even more meaningful."

The company is also developing a fragrance experience center, including a professional perfume-making classroom where visitors will be able to learn about fragrance production and create personalized scents of their own.

Looking back on the project, Xu said what impressed him most was the dedication shown by the French team throughout the collaboration.

"After years of helping manufacture products for other brands, I simply wanted to create something that truly belongs to my hometown," he said. "If people spray this perfume and it brings back their happiest memories of Pingtan, then we've achieved our goal."